Dame Agatha’s footsteps in Syria
From the top of a prehistoric mound in northern Syria, Dutch excavator Peter Akkermans looks out over a dust-swept plain. We're on top of a mound, one of many “whacking great tells” in the words of...
View ArticleAcross the mouth of the Congo
“We’ve got a prima donna on board,” Roger says, referring to a big African lady flaunting a manicure that features a rhinestone-encircled fake pearl affixed to each of her 10 fingernails. We’ve waded...
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Around Africa overland in 31 weeks
Wandering Savage went the overland route down the west coast of Africa from October 2010 to March 2011, entirely on public transport. Follow the route. It started in Palermo, where I caught the ferry...
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Kazan, a thousand years new
The train slid to a stop a thousand miles east of Moscow to the sound of the Village People singing “YMCA.” Piped through each compartment’s speakers as the staff distributed tea and snacks, the disco...
View ArticleDefining duende
I had never heard the word duende until I got to Granada. It’s a great word, drawn from the name of mythological forest sprites that make people lose their way home, or goblin-like creatures that live...
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